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May 01, 2008

Tutorial, part 2: Dyed Paper Towels for Paper and Fabric Arts

First off, thank you all so much for the kind words on the first part of my tutorial. This second part may make you question my sanity, but let me just say: try it first. Then call me crazy. You see, I am one of those strange birds also known as "mixed-media artists" who believe it is fair game not only to paint, glue, bleach, stitch, scratch, or embellish any and every available surface in the quest for artistic expression, but also to rip and tear, melt with a heat gun, sand until unrecognizable, or even bury in the backyard any object of our choosing in the holy pursuit of "texture". We can be very technique driven and, immediately after the first semi-successful attempt at the latest greatest technique on the radar, our second thought is: Oh, cool! I wonder what will happen if I try it on x? Add to this a strange attraction to all things equally precious or mundane, and you eventually end up with the painted paper towel. Let me see if I can show you what I mean.

At the end of our first tutorial, you end up with a workspace that looks something like this:

Paint_mess

You've used the Calypso Blue on everything within reach and now you are anxious to try out the Santa Red, but you're left with a brush and a pallet still loaded with blue (maybe you won't be quite so ambitious next time). So, you grab the paper towels I told to have on standby and give it all a quick clean up.

Wipe_paint

It is then that you realize, "Hey, that paper towels looks really cool!" and you begin looking around for more paint to clean up, hoping to discover a random splatter of Bubblegum Pink that would contrast with the blue quite nicely....

Paint_towel

Tutorial, part 2: Dyed Paper Towels for Paper and Fabric Arts

Materials:

  • acrylic craft paint
  • foam or bristle brushes
  • mixing tray or disposable bowls
  • water, in a cup
  • paper towels, solid white (experiment with different sizes, weights and textures)
  • iron
  • fusible webbing
  • kunin (or acrylic) felt (usually the kind found in sheets in most craft stores)
  • sewing machine with free-motion foot
  • matte medium (similar to matte decoupage medium and can be found in arts & craft supply stores usually on the same aisle as the artist grade tubes of acrylic and oil paints for around $8)
  • scissors
  • heavy watercolor paper or canvas

1.  They say "Waste not, want not" but I say, "Waste nothing and never lack for inspiration!" So, instead of cleaning that brush in a bowl of water to be dumped down your drain and clog up your pipes (But you'd never do that, would you??), just squeeze off the paint onto a paper towel and watch the magic happen. Keep dipping the brush in water and squeezing it off onto the paper towels until the brush comes off mostly clean. Do this every time you change paint colors or make a little spill and soon you will have one colorful paper towel.

Towel_flat

2.  Keeping adding paint to your paper towel as you work until it is fairly saturated with water and paint. Then you can squeeze it into a ball so that the color gets mixed around all areas of the towel. Once it looks interesting and mostly covered, set it aside to dry flat. 

Towel_ball

3. Once you open up your towel, you may still notice spots of white peeking through. You can wipe the color off your brush directly onto these spots, but for the most part, don't think too much about the process just let the color fall where it will. I promise, you'll be pleasantly surprised each time you open up that little treasure wad of toweling.

Towel_flat2

Towel_flat_paint

4.  Soon you'll end up with a great big stack of gorgeous raw materials to use in your artwork. Remember, this is a technique you can practice while you are actually working on something completely different. But if the paint is already out, might as well sop it up and make something pretty out of the mess. Am I right? This is re-purposing at its best.

Stack_of_towels_sm_2

5.  After your towels have dried, they are still just paint covered paper towels until you iron them. The ironing transforms these humble beginnings into a sheer, lightly textured decorative paper of your own original design. Plus, if you use 2-ply toweling, you get two pieces for the price of one! As you iron the towels flat, you will notice the layers begin to separate easily on their own. Hint: you might want to iron your painted towels with a piece of drawing paper or a pressing cloth covering your ironing board to keep it clean. If you end up with gunk on your iron (and you shouldn't if you let the towels dry completely), you might want to check out this genius post I read yesterday to make your iron pretty as new. I haven't tried it myself yet, but I plan to.

6.  So what do you do with a stack of painted paper towels?? Why, just use your imagination! But I'll give you a few ideas to get you started.

Paper Art Ideas:

Dripping_rain_sm

Circus_square_sm

Speckled_pink_sm_3 

The pieces above were made by cutting strips of the sheer towels and layering them onto art paper. I find that matte medium works best to glue them down smoothly. And because they are so porous, you can just lay the towel down on your paper surface and brush the matte medium right over the top of the towels smoothing out the wrinkles as you go instead of having to brush the matte medium onto the paper first. Make sense? Think of decoupage here. The glue goes on top of the the object to be glued down. Everything will dry with a nicely textured surface, but if your paper warps a bit, you can always press it again with a hot iron once it dries.

The paper can be used as a background or base for collage or used just as you would any other decorative paper. This journal cover was made from a dyed paper towel glued to heavyweight watercolor paper and then hand-stitched. I love the texture it creates and the white paper background really makes those paint splotches pop.

Cherry_journal_1

You can also cut the towels as they are to cut into shapes for collage as I did in these mixed-media pieces:

Bright_new_world_sm

Bright New World, mixed media on canvas

Twilight_sm

Twilight, mixed media on canvas

The flowers and trees were cut from towels and layered onto the canvas with matte medium. After they dried, they were further embellished with stamps, colored pencils, etc. If you're going to do this, it is good to keep a supply of dyed towels on hand in every color to use whenever inspiration strikes. Remember: the paper towels are like any other paper you might use in your art, but they're better. First, you designed them yourself so no one will ever look at your work and immediately think "Basic Grey" or any other commercially printed paper and, second, it is sheer and can be layered to create a depth of color you wouldn't imagine. For fun, try layering them with printed tissue papers (see stars in Twilight).

Fabric Art Ideas:

Believe it or not, you can make your own fabric out of those pretty paper towels. I've had the best results using Wonder Under or similar fusible webbing to fuse the towels to a felt backing. Just fuse the webbing directly to the felt, remove the paper backing, and then iron the paper towel to the felt. Make sure your iron isn't too hot when using kunin, or acrylic, felt or it will melt. I do think using the lightly heated acrylic felt makes the fused surface even stronger than wool felt might, but you should experiment to find which you like best. I've used muslin as a backing for the paper towels as well, but I prefer the more cushioned felt backing. It makes a nice quilted surface when you top stitch right on top of it.

Quilted_fabric_paper_2_sm

Quilted_fabric_paper_sm

One more thing. Obviously, I wouldn't recommend washing your paper towel fabric. But, then again, try it and see what happens! But there are still a million ways you can use your new fabric in art quilts, applique, handbags, bookmaking, etc. Just use your imagination! I discovered the quilted fabric makes excellent pin cushions!

Pincushions_all_sm

Now, hopefully, the creative juices are already flowing and you at least have an idea of how great the artistic potential can be even in something as common as a paper towel. And I hope you never look at trash the same way again. Now go experiment, have fun, and come back here to show off your stuff--please!

April 24, 2008

Tutorial, part 1: Hand-dyed Fabric Trims

Tutorialcontest_4 * As I mentioned earlier, I've been working on a new tutorial, but yesterday I saw that Sew, Mama, Sew is having a tutorial contest this month so I thought I'd go ahead and enter. For a chance at some of their terrific fabrics? Of course! This tutorial will be in two parts. The first part is a do-it-yourself tutorial for dyeing your own fabric and lace trims to use in your sewing projects. Part two is a follow-up of that process to dye paper towels--yes, you read that right!--that you can use in your paper crafts, mixed media art, or fabric art. I'll show you how. Are you ready? Let's go!

Tutorial: Hand-dyed Fabric Trims

Tutorial_peek_4

Part One:

I love the idea of dyeing and painting my own fabric designs. What I don't love are the huge vats of dyes, waxes, specialty tools, and expensive fabric paints that are often required. (Although I do love the fabulous results you can get!) And, as much as I'd love to, I just don't have the space to lay out and dye whole pieces of cloth. So, I've had to learn ways to get similar results on a smaller, less expensive, and locally available scale. It turns out I've had so much fun with it that I've experimented with dyeing or colorwashing just about every raw material I can think of. That's how it occurred to me to dye my own fabric trims. I have a weakness for lace trims, but they are difficult to find in the bright colors I prefer. There are, however, gobs of easy to find and less expensive to buy white trims available at fabric, craft, and even thrift shops. I bet you have tons of them mixed in your stash right now.

Here's what I had on hand:

White_trims

Materials you'll need:

  • fabric and lace trims, white or off white
  • acrylic craft paints or fabric paints
  • cup of water & spray bottle of water
  • disposable bowls or paint mixing tray
  • foam brushes
  • paper towels
  • flat, non-porous work surface (cutting board, plastic tray, table covered with freezer paper, etc.)
  • outside drying rack (clothes line, stick, branch, pvc pipe, etc.)

1.  Lay out the trim onto your work surface. I use an old rotary cutting mat that I accidentally warped with an embossing gun, but any non-porous surface like a plastic tray or cutting board from the kitchen will work great. Hint: you might want to set this one aside for craft use only from now on!

  Choose_trim

2.  Mix up your paints. Squeeze a few drops of acrylic craft paint (The $1 a bottle stuff you can get at any craft store and probably already have on hand.) into a painting tray or disposable bowl, then add enough water to thin it out to a milky consistency. This isn't an exact science. A ratio of about 5 to 1 is good. Too much water and the color will be lighter and less opaque, too little water and your fabric will dry stiff. You don't need to have a special fabric paint. Since we are diluting our paint with lots of water, any acrylic paint will work without changing the hand of the fabric too much. If you already have or can find inexpensive fabric paints (I also like Pebeo Setacolor transparent, below.), these of course work great, but won't require as much water to thin.

Fabric_paints

3.  Before starting, spray the trim with water to dampen. Wet your brush and begin to dab the color onto your fabric trim, blending the color with the brush and diluting with additional water as necessary. If the color seems too dark or splotchy, add water from your brush onto the trim itself as you blend the color. You will want to fully saturate the trim with paint so that both sides are covered and you end up with your trim sitting in a little puddle of paint. Once the fabric dries, you can go back and add an additional wash of paint to even out the color or make it more vibrant, if necessary. I only had to do this with the lighter colors, like yellow and lime green.

Paint_trim

4.  Once you have fully covered one side of the trim, turn it over and dab more color onto the backside until it is fully saturated and evenly colored.

Finish_trim

5.  Carefully hang your trim outside to dry. I use a stick or pvc pipe propped up between two window sills as my drying rack. You can use a tree branch (It will take on a little of the paint color but shouldn't hurt the  tree.) or clothes line, too. But, trust me, this is something you want to do outside unless you like a polka dotted floor.

Hang_dry

6.  Repeat steps 1-5 as many times as you like until your drying rack overfloweth. When dyeing fabric or paper, I like to make as much as possible to have on hand for future projects.

Hang_dry2

7.  Once the trims are dry, throw them in the dryer on high to heat set the paint and they will even be machine washable. And, did I mention, this is also a great activity to do with kids? Since you can basically use this same method for dyeing fabric, I cut small pieces of trim and muslin scraps for my kids to paint and they have a ball! So put them to work and you'll all have fun and boost your stash at the same time.

Dry_trims

7.  Warning: this process can become addictive! Now that you're crazy passionate about dyeing trims, you'll be looking around the house to see what else you can paint, and this is where our next tutorial comes in. When you return to your messy work surface to begin again with even more colors and trims, you will find something like this. And this is where we will pick up for Part 2 of our tutorial in just a few days.

Paint_mess

You can find more tutorial pictures at my Flickr set. And let me leave you with a few great ideas from my Flickr favorites for using your new trims. You can also see how I've used trim in some recent projects here, here, here, and here. Now, go play!

Mosaic4628626_2 

1. small present/pequeno presente, 2. Untitled, 3. Removable Pocket, 4. back/side view...frilly butt!!, 5. Another pouch..., 6. Laptop Tote from Vintage Barkcloths, Satin Brocade & Trims, 7. Flower Apron, 8. Hab-Dich-Lieb-Rock, 9. wallet n.7/carteira n.7, 10. tanzen1, 11. malas by Paula Mateus, 12. Untitled, 13. Nicole wallet / carteira da Nicole, 14. Summer Bag, 15. patchamania skirt o' orange blossomy sunshiney love, 16. P1020643

June 15, 2007

tutorial: self-portrait stencil

Selfportrait_stencil2

I am soooo excited about this one. Please do try it, especially you journal artists. It is a lot more fun than you'd think to manipulate images of yourself. Although I make stencils a lot, it had never occurred to me to do a self-portrait until I read Randi Feuerhelm-Watts' brilliant book, Wide Open. If you don't have her book, go get it today. So many inspiring ideas! Okay, let's get to it.

Materials you need:

    • Clear photograph of yourself, preferably a self-portrait
    • Photoshop, PE (Photoshop Elements), or other photo editing software.
    • Exacto knife with new sharp blades (this is essential if you don't want to be cursing yourself through this project.)
    • A self-healing mat is nice and makes cutting much easier (you don't have to have a huge one). I've also heard of using a piece of glass to cut on, but I'd cut my finger off for sure. Note: rotary cutting mats are not self-healing. They work okay, but not as nicely as the self-healing mats.
    • Cardstock  or other material for your template. Cardstock is easy, but a file folder, inkjet transparency (assuming you have an inkjet printer), thin plastic used to make stencils (you can find them with the stencils at craft stores), and really thin chipboard all work well, too. Plain copy paper will work but it won't last as long. You need something thick enough to hold cut details well, but thin enough to run through your printer. I suppose photo paper or smooth watercolor paper would work, too.  Note: you can run just about anything that is flat, can be cut down to 8.5 x 11 or smaller, and isn't sticky through your printer, including fabric--trust me, I've tried it all and never had a problem.
    • Dye ink pad and cosmetic sponge or acrylic paint with sponge brush.
    • Plain paper to test on.

Making the Stencil

  1. The first thing you need to do is to select a good photograph. Not necessarily "good" as in flattering, but "good" as in the image makes a good stencil. Finding the perfect one takes some time. Be patient and have fun. You may have to digitally manipulate several photos before deciding which one would make the best stencil. You're looking for clear definition and not too many details.Selfportrait_stencil7
  2. Once you find the right photograph, you need to simplify and turn it into b&w in Photoshop or PE. Although another program might work, I can only show you how on these. I'm sorry, but I have no pictures for this part. I can't find my original picture. Somehow I must have deleted it or something.)
  3. Scan or pull up the digital photo in Photoshop. Disclaimer: I am no expert here, I just know what has worked for me not necessarily the only/best way to do it. Everything I know, I've figured out myself.
  4. Apply the "Note Paper" filter to your photo: Filter/Sketch/Note Paper.  Then reduce the Relief by sliding the slider bar to the left all the way to zero. Click Okay.
  5. Selfportrait_stencil8

  6. Next, change your image to black & white and simplify it a bit: Image/Adjustments/Threshold. (For PE: Filter/Adjustments/Threshold.) This will turn your photo completely white. In the pop up box, slide the bar to the right until you begin to see your image reemerge. Move the slider back and forth until you get a clear image with as few details as possible while still being recognizable.
  7. Selfportrait_stencil10

  8. Remember: Everything that is Black you will be cutting away. Don't worry about the background b/c we aren't interested in it. And you also don't need to include every detail (clothes, hair, etc.) when you actually cut your stencil.
  9. Once your image looks kinda like what could be a stencil, and you like it, click Okay.
  10. At this point, you can use the Eraser Tool to remove some of the background or any details that are distracting to you if you'd like. The simpler for cutting the better.
  11. Selfportrait_stencil9

  12. Finally, Save your document immediately! And put your cardstock in the printer now.
  13. Decide approximately how large you want your stencil to be. Too small will be more difficult to cut but it doesn't have to be huge. What about 4x6? 6x8? or 8x10? Fill the whole page?
  14. Print your stencil: File/Print With Preview. Adjust Height and/or Width. Click Print then Okay.
  15. Selfportrait_stencil1_2

Cutting the Stencil

  1. This is the easy and not so easy part. Before making any cuts, look over your image and tell yourself out loud (multiple times if necessary): Everything Black will be cut away. Cut away all of the Black parts only. (You will be cutting away the positive space, but if knowing that just confuses you, forget it now.)
  2. As you cut, go slow and pay attention to important details like eyes, nose, etc. You want to cut out the basic image not every single detail. It does not have to be perfect to make a great stencil. Go along the basic contour of the image as you cut.
  3. Selfportrait_stencil2_2

  4. Once all the black is cut away, you'll need to try out your stencil.  On some scrap paper, hold the stencil firmly in place (or use a very low tack--sticky--tape to keep it in place and sponge ink through the openings of the stencil. At this point, make sure all the corners, etc. are filled with ink so you get the most accurate impression. (Later, try out how few areas you need to stencil to get an interesting image.) If you need to make adjustments to the stencil, do it now and then make another print until you get an image you like.
  5. Selfportrait_stencil5_2 Selfportrait_stencil3 Selfportrait_stencil4 

  6. Ta-da! You did it. Is that not super cool or what?? Next you will want to hunt down photos of all your family members, and your dog, and maybe that cool sign or building you photographed last week....
  7. Try out all the cool things you can do with your stencils.
  8. Selfportrait_stencil6

Of course, you can make any kind of stencil you want. You can use clipart designs, hand drawn images, or any object to make a stencil, but the purpose of this exercise is to use a picture of yourself. If you don't already use self-portraits in your artwork or journaling, do it, regardless of how you feel about the way you look. Purposefully try out unflattering pictures to show yourself it is okay not to be perfect. How can you be truly real in your journals if you aren't real, or just don't want to document, this?? For more encouragement, read Randi's book (link above). But the thing she wrote that stuck with me the most about self-portraits was this: Don't be afraid of what you see, that is what everyone else sees every day. So, what the heck? Just do it. Seeing pictures of yourself more often will get you used to it and maybe one day, you'll love what you see. (I'm preaching to myself here, too.)

I really hope you try this out, but as a gift of appreciation for all my time and effort (just joking) you have to send me a picture of your stencil or how you used your stenciled image. I would also appreciate feedback on the tutorial itself. Is it clear or confusing? Too much information or too little? Inaccurate? Otherwise helpful or unhelpful? And if you have any questions, just email me or leave it in the comments.

And check back, because I'm also putting together a tutorial on how I paint/stamp my papers, envelopes & file folders. See pictures here and here.

Thanks. This has  been fun. ;-)

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  • I do not know what I may appear to the world; but to myself I seem to have been only like a boy playing on the sea-shore, and diverting myself in now and then finding a smoother pebble or a pretier shell than ordinary, whilst the great ocean of truth lay all undiscovered before me. --Isaac Newton

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